A Gardener's Year at South Farm

Despite the snow inside the polytunnels and greenhouses work has continued apace as we begin the race to provide some fresh produce for the kitchen as early as we can. The first of our new irrigation systems has been fitted into one of the new tunnels and judging by the trials we have done, watering the new tunnels will be a considerably more efficient proposition than the hand held hose pipes of old!

February is also the start of the main seed sowing for the season. In our mental map of the year Valentine’s Day is always a good marker – it is the week of our first seed sowing, a momentous and exciting event which sends shivers of anticipation down the spine!

Obviously the cold weather does mean that seed sowing needs to be done in a protected atmosphere – a greenhouse, potting shed or simply on a kitchen window sill. Seeds sown indoors or with additional heat will allow earlier flowering and cropping. A protected environment should also mean you can manipulate the growing conditions.

We will be starting our tomatoes this month – producing tomatoes from seed is the cheapest way of growing your own. It is also very rewarding, so if you fancy giving it a go buy some tomato seeds (or whatever you fancy having a go at) and follow these simple steps!

Step one – find containers – a seed tray, modules, an old mushroom container from the supermarket or the tried and tested plant pot will all do! Old containers should be thoroughly cleaned before use to cut down the chances of nasty’s attacking your lovely new seedlings.  Small seeds are generally sown in a shallow tray and pricked out into larger pots. Slightly larger seeds can be sown into individual modules if space allows, limiting transplant shock.

Step two – Get some compost! Use a standard organic sterile soil-based or soil-less seed composts. Fill the container with compost, level, firm gently and water.

Step three – Tomatoes are pretty simple seeds but many seeds require specific sowing treatments, such as light-exclusion and scarification (scratching or nicking the seed coat), so check seed packets for specific instructions. Generally sow seeds thinly. Very small seeds can be mixed with fine sand before sowing to obtain more even distribution. Sift a fine layer of compost over the seeds. Label, lightly water again and place in a heated propagator or kitchen window sill.

Step four – Check for seedling emergence. Once seedlings emerge increase ventilation and remove covers. Keep the compost just moist and keep sensitive seedlings frost free.

Next month we will follow the tomato journey from seed to plate.

- Text by Simon Saggers

- Images by Ria Mishaal

The very warm weather has meant the crops in the newly completed polytunnels have all growing well. We have been harvesting Pak Choi for our events and the carrots are nearly ready!

This month we will be lifting and moving some of our asparagus into the new permanent bed and lifting and dividing some of the rhubarb crowns. These divided crowns will be replanted in the new permanent beds and left for a year to settle in before we crop them again.

This time of year is also a time to reflect on the successes and failures of last season and weave those lessons into the plans and seed orders for the coming year.  Each year we like to add new varieties to our list and try interesting crop mixes.

This year’s the new varieties include Black Futsu and Cha-cha winter squash, Solar yellow, cosmic purple and ya-ya carrots, Gladiator parsnips, Fizz Kale, Purple Royalty Beans, Porvite Leeks, Sugar Buns sweetcorn, Atris peppers, Monarca aubergine, Lime Basil, Swing Cucumbers, and Oxheart tomatoes.

In relation to mixes we will be growing the cha-cha squash under the Sugar Buns sweetcorn and green manure under French beans.

The compost bays are also complete which is wonderful as we can now start stock piling some organic material!

We are also completing our planting plans for the year – each year we make sure we are rotating the crops around our growing areas and creating efficient plans for planting.  We run seven and eight year rotations which move the main crop families – brassica, legumes, alliums, potatoes, roots, cucurbits and green manures – around the holding. The planting plans cover what we plant in each bed and when we plant and harvest. If you are interested in these details they are posted on the main south farm website.

- Text by Simon Saggers

- Images by Ria Mishaal